Belts & Hoses
Before starting any long trip or after every
50,000 miles of use, check all of the engine's accessory belts.
Today, many cars are equipped with a serpentine belt that runs all
of the accessories, so if that belt breaks, you can lose your power
steering, water pump and charging system immediately. Inspect the
engine and look at the belt (or belts) to see if there is visible
damage, abnormal wear or small hairline cracks. Replace any belt
that shows signs of wear. Even if a belt appears to be in good
condition, it should be replaced every 50,000 miles as preventative
maintenance.
Like belts, radiator and heater hoses are also
made of rubber. Their condition should be checked periodically. Both
the upper and lower radiator hoses can rupture from internal
pressure and age without the driver knowing it. When that happens,
the coolant spews out, and the engine can seize from excessive heat
buildup.
In general, inspect all hoses for wear, including
hairline cracks and soft, bulging spots. Hoses that come in contact
with brackets or other metal parts are prone to wear in these areas.
Even if the hoses pass visual inspection, we recommend changing all
the water hoses every 50,000 miles.
Brakes
Your vehicle's most critical system is its brakes.
Many people never look at the master cylinder until they have brake
failure. In late-model vehicles, the master cylinders are often made
of semi-opaque plastic that allows inspecting the fluid level
without taking off the cover, as is the case with cast-iron master
cylinders.
In addition to checking fluid level, look for
leaks where the brake lines attach to the master cylinder and where
the master cylinder bolts to the power booster. If you see signs of
brake fluid, tighten the fittings using a line wrench on brake-line
nuts to prevent against rounding off their shoulders. If the master
cylinder is leaking at the rear, replace it.
In the interest of safety, periodically get under
the vehicle and inspect the rubber hoses that go to the wheels for
excessive wear or cracks; replace these hoses as necessary. Finally,
check brake shoes and/or caliper pads regularly. Worn pads can
damage the brake rotor or drum, turning a simple maintenance job
into an expensive replacement procedure. For vehicles with disc
brakes, replace the pads with whatever style the manufacturer
recommends.
Lubrication & Filters
Check your oil and water levels
weekly. Check radiator and hoses for leaks. Make sure engine fans
works correctly. Watch always temperature gauge when you drive a
car. Change gasoline filter every year. Change air filter every
5'000 miles. Check levels of Transmission fluid and power steering
weekly. Check engine belt at least once a month.
Adequate lubrication is one of the key factors in
keeping your engine running well. The fluid level should be checked
weekly, and the oil should be changed frequently (every 3,000 miles
in older engines) to keep it clean. The most common effect of
neglected oil inspection is an engine seize or some other type of
catastrophic failure. Checking the oil level is a lot more
convenient than replacing and engine.
Consult your owner's manual regarding oil-change
intervals and lubricant specifications. If you choose engine oil,
check your owner's manual for the recommended viscosity in various
weather conditions. Temperature seriously affects your oil and its
lubricating effectiveness, and using the incorrect weight—such as
straight 30-weight in winter in cold country—can be harmful to the
internal parts you're trying to protect.
Degreasers
Your engine compartment can be kept looking as
good as the day you purchased the car by cleaning it once a month.
Degreasing can be done when you wash the car.
A variety of engine cleaning products works
extremely well, and some household degreasers are also effective.
Spray the product on and let it soak in, then hose off the chemicals
to reveal a sparkling-clean engine compartment. Your local auto
parts store will have several biodegradable cleaners that are
environmentally friendly. Read each label for the correct way to use
the product prior to purchasing it. Be careful if you steam clean
your engine with high pressure. Some electric & electronic
components like air flows, distributors or spark plugs are not
waterproof.
As a side benefit, leaks and other problems are
easier to spot in clean engine compartments.
Wash & Polish
Wash your car regularly - at least
once a month. When it's clean, all the moisture dries up quickly,
but when it's dirty, the moisture accumulates in dirty areas
causing corrosion. Make sure to wash off all the places where the
dirt and salt may be accumulated; for example, behind moldings,
inside wheel arches, under the bumpers etc. At least once in a
while use pressure wash - it removes the dirt from difficult to
reach areas. It's particularly helpful after winter - to wash out
all the salt accumulations that speed up the corrosion process.
Most of car wash stations also have optional waxing - for example,
at coin wash stations this mode calls "high pressure wax". I do
recommend to use this option, it's not only makes the car shiny,
it does protect the paint.
We recommend to wax your car once
in a three - four months (the often, the better) after washing.
Wax protects your car's coating from sun and chemicals. Things
like bird's dropping, or limestone dripping do harm the painting
leaving permanent stains. Wax helps to protect the paint,
minimizing harm of chemicals and protecting the paint from fading;
plus the car looks shiny. It takes about 30 minutes to polish a
whole car and high quality wax polish stays on the car for three -
four months. So far, I haven't seen a single product that stays
for life time as you've heard in some commercial - nothing lasts
forever. In order to maintain protective coat any product needs to
be reapplied periodically. For example, from my experience, the
Turtle Wax Carnauba wax stays for three - four months.
All of the automotive paint manufactures have to
meet current EPA standards, so automotive paints have been evolving
over the past several years. New vehicles are painted with urethane
products and most factories use two- and three-stage paints. As a
result, it's important to use car-care products that are designed
for these finishes. Carefully read the label prior to buying the wax
or other surface treatment to assure paint compatibility.
Between wax applications, an instant-detailer
product will supply a "wet" look to your finish as well as helping
to protect it from the elements. If your finish is smooth and clean,
use a pure carnauba wax with no cleaners. Read the label and follow
the directions for the best results.
Glass Care
There's nothing worse, or more dangerous, than
looking out of a dirty windshield. Dirty glass deflects the light
and can make visibility dangerous at best, impossible at worst.
Many products do an excellent job of washing your
windshield, and it's always advisable to wipe the product off with a
paper towel that doesn't leave lint or streaks. Consider cleaning
your windshield every morning, or at least use your automatic
windshield washers before departing.
For surface scratches, glass-polishing products
can usually make the windshield appear as good as new. Also, small
rock chips and cracks can be sometimes successfully filled with
resin repair kits from the auto parts store. Alternately, automotive
glass shops and mobile-repair services can fill small chips and
cracks so that they virtually disappear.
Wipers & Washers
The windshield wipers and washers are obviously
very important parts of your car, and they need periodic
maintenance. Windshield wiper blades should be replaced once a year
to maintain a perfect seal against the glass. (Hardened rubber can
scratch the glass surface and will not remove water effectively.)
When replacing wiper blades, make sure that the refills are the
exact same length as the OE ones. This will prevent metal-to-glass
contact and the serious scratching that usually results.
The windshield washer reservoir should also be
checked and filled with a cleaning product, not just water.
Periodically use the washers to make sure they're functioning
properly. Clogged squirt nozzles can be cleaned by clearing them
with a small-gauge wire. If the problem is the electric pump on the
washer-fluid reservoir, replace the pump. Driving in slushy snow or
muddy rain can impair vision and require frequent use of the
washers. Don't neglect this safety item.
Lights
Another safety-related aspect that should be
checked periodically is the light system. With the exception of the
bright-white halide-gas headlights on expensive new sports cars,
many automotive lights are just bulbs, downsized versions of the
ones in your house. As such, they do eventually burn out.
Periodically check the lights to make sure they're
all working. Turn on your emergency flasher and see if all four
lights flash. Then individually try the right and left turn signal
to make sure they are working front and rear. Ask a friend to apply
the brakes to see if the brake lights are functioning. Obviously,
it's extremely dangerous to drive a car with faulty brake lights.
If any of the lights aren't working, replace that
bulb. If the brake lights aren't working first check the bulbs, then
the brake switch. If your dash lights are not functioning, check for
burned out fuses, or for defective bulbs in older vehicles. For
passenger safety, make sure that the courtesy lamps illuminate.
Don't forget any underhood bulbs as well as the trunk lamp.
Interior
The interior of your car is not a storage area for
empty cans and old french fries. It should be clean and well
maintained. The carpets should be vacuumed, and the vinyl should be
coated with a protectant periodically. For cloth interiors, many
products are available at your auto parts store for shampooing and
stain removal. Leather interiors require special conditioners to
keep the skins soft and pliable.
Always read the application directions on the
container. With today's technology, almost any type of interior
problem can be solved with a specific cleaner. Always read the label
and follow the directions exactly for optimum results. Sometimes
surface preparation is required prior to applying stain remover or
using other interior chemicals properly.
Joints
Although the undercarriage isn't as easy to
inspect as the rest of the vehicle, it's just as vital. Underneath,
all moving parts should be inspected and lubricated every few
months. Areas to be particularly concerned with are driveshaft
U-joints and, in front-wheel-drive cars, halfshafts and CV-joints.
If you use a quick-lube place for oil changes, ask to have these
joints inspected and lubed in conjunction with the oil change.
Fluid leaks are not only messy, they can be the
warning of a larger problem to come. Have your wheel bearings
inspected and repacked every 20,000 miles and all under-car fuel
lines and brake lines looked at as well. It's easy to forget what
you can't see, but some of the most critical items are underneath
your car.
Tire Care
Many companies now offer spray-on tire-care
products. Some people prefer the glossy-black look while others like
a more natural semi-gloss black. Common soap pads can be used to
clean white letters and to remove the brown brake dust from the
sidewalls.
Most people are well aware that tire failures can
be fatal. With this in mind, get in the habit of visually inspecting
daily for sidewall bulges and checking air pressure at every gas
stop. After all, a tire pressure gauge is a lot cheaper than a new
set of tires.
Proper inflation pressure makes tires last longer,
and it also improves the vehicle's fuel economy. Assuming that the
wheels are properly aligned, under-inflation causes the tires'
shoulders to wear faster than the centers, and over-inflation makes
the center strips go bald earlier than the shoulders. Your owner's
manual will recommend the correct pressure for your vehicle.
Assuming that the vehicle is aligned properly,
inexpensive tires should last in excess of 30,000 miles; expensive
brands often go over 50,000. Conversely, worn tires may work okay in
dry weather, but they can become downright dangerous in the rain.
Periodically inspect the sidewalls for cracking or splitting. Old
tires, even with low mileage, can be dangerous because the rubber
cracks and hardens over time. Any tire over five years old should be
changed. Bottom line: Blowouts can be fatal!
Wheels
These days, almost all new vehicles (with the
possible exceptions of econo-boxes and heavier-duty trucks) are
factory-equipped with alloy wheels. Some of these wheels have a
natural finish, some have a natural finish with a clear coating and
some are powdercoated. Regardless, all eventually get caked with
disc-brake dust and road grime.
At the parts store, it's important to select a
cleaner that's designed for your wheel type. For example,
clear-coated wheels should be cleaned with a different cleaner than
natural-finish alloys or steel wheels. Check with your manufacturer
for your specific wheel type and select the appropriate product.
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